I spent some time with both the Carson Hookupz 2.0 and Orion SteadyPix Quick Smartphone adapters on my Meade ETX90EC. I wanted to test them inside before trying outside because I had issues focusing and zooming in. The major issue I had the first time I tried was the iPhone case I use. Once I took it off, the smartphone adapters worked much better. I will try them outside next.
I created an article called Smartphone Adapters with more information comparing these two smartphone adapters for telescopes.
Tagged: HookUpz, SteadyPix
I purchased the Meade LX70 Polar Scope for my LX70 telescope mount a while back. I previously created a blog post about the initial installation. The next step was the follow the instructions to align it. The manual first mentioned to point the mount at a distant terrestrial object during the daytime. I found this confusing since the mount points up. I decided to interpret this as something higher then where I was as there was nothing in the distance that was high. I selected the roof of the next door house. I then rotate the mount the 180 degrees as mentioned and the object I was pointing at moved a great distance.
So, I went to adjust the reticle adjustment screws. The first problem was finding the right size allen wrench. I went through my telescope parts and found it. The process is to tighten or loosen three screws. I tried but didn’t seem to make much difference. I keep trying and got worried I might be striping the screws. The manual warned not to do too much. It also warned that if you loosen to much it might fall in. Of course, as I got more and more frustrated, I did just that.
I unscrewed the polar scope and started looking at it. I realized the long end would unscrew and did that. I tilted it up and out came the screw. I also realized the other end would unscrew as it was for focusing. Once everything was apart, I found a better idea of how it worked. It appeared the part of the polar that had the image of the North Star wasn’t being held in place by the screws. I positioned it and tightly all three screws. I checked the alignment and better. I did one adjusted and still not correct but decided to just let go. I would try to align at night with the motor drive and then see the real affect on something like the moon or a planet.
When doing visual observing at a telescope, I find myself wishing I could record the image. I know some people sketch but sketching isn’t for me. Astrophotography with a connected DSLR or dedicated camera is great but that isn’t visual observing. So, I have been very interested in the concept of afocal astrophotography. I earlier got an adapter for an old point-and-shot camera but was a lot of work to get the camera positioned and then figure out all the controls. Again, I could use the DSLR. But, then I found an article about using a smartphone. So, I purchased a couple of adapters which sat gathering dust. But, going to make it a goal to figure out afocal photography using a smartphone.
I first step was to do some researching on the Internet. A number of article I found are below. Here are my takeaways:
- Smartphones can take adequate images through the eyepieces. This is partial due to the increasing technology in each new smartphone model.
- An adapter is necessary to hold the smartphone steady over the eyepiece.
- Something is necessary to take the picture to avoid movement
- Dedicated apps will probably help with the process but curious how the native camera controls do.
The next step will be to re-review the two adapters I have.
Tagged: afocal, smartphone
I took some images using my ZWO ASI034MC and Meade ETX90EC. I used SharpCap to capture of still images and a couple of videos. I reviewed the results and something didn’t look right. The images of the moon were very low resolution and had a grid pattern over them. The images of Saturn and Mars showed no color. I am sure I saw some red for Mars. I checked the Camera Settings view and noticed the Color Space was RAW8. I thought I had changed this but out of patience using SharpCap since the last time was the solar eclipse last year.
I did some research and found this article https://docs.sharpcap.co.uk/2.9/10_CameraBasics.htm. It explains what the differences are for the color spaces in SharpCap. I guess it makes since that I captured a RAW format. I have been capturing images in RAW using my Canon T3i but haven’t had to time to really learn what that means. Related to SharpCap, I checked and I recorded the solar images in RGB24. What was interesting is the article mentioned that SharpCap has its code so the image on the screen will be in color. This explains my confusion.
So, I next wondered if I could get the images to display like I saw in the preview. I did another search and found this article https://forums.sharpcap.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=254. It provides a link to a PDF which explains how to “debayer” the RAW images to display color. The process involves using a software called PIPP.
In PIPP, one of the question is what debayer patter was used. It said to do a search on the camera model. I did for the ZWO ASI034MC but didn’t get a result. Since, there are only four choices and just tried them and learned the correct patter was GRBG.
Here is the process I did to convert by SharpCap RAW8 files:
- Organize the RAW files into a folder
- Start PIPP
- Drag-and-drop the images into the Image Files List
- The Output Frame window appears to give a preview
- Select the Input Options tab
- Check – Debayer Monochrome Frames
- Select GRBG
- Click the “Test Options” to test image result
- Select Output Frame tab
- Select Do Procession tab
- Click Start Processing
- Click Open Output Folder to find results
For the AVI video, I just changed the Output Format to be AVI. But, I did to add each file individually or it joined them into one AVI.